Friday 31 August 2012

Karghalik

There’s nothing like waking up in the freezing cold to appreciate the sun. The cold slowed us down a little when taking down our tent. Worried that we would end up delaying the convoy for being too slow, we decided to skip breakfast altogether.

What we didn’t expect was that half the convoy had decided to do the same thing. The chefs from the previous night had also prepared breakfast for the morning and most of it had gone uneaten. I guess they really do take pride in the cooking as the convoy was later informed that the chefs were pretty upset about the wasted food.

One pretty noteworthy point about camping is the complete lack of proper toilet facilities. Behind this awesome range of mountains was the terrifying anticipation of answering the call of nature within the arms of Mother Nature herself. Being city girls, we took the joy of using a proper, clean toilet for granted. To be able to just go in the middle of nowhere coupled with the fear of being seen with your pants down literally can be a traumatising experience for girls.

But I’m proud to say that we overcame our fears that day. It was liberating to actually be able to let go of certain inhibitions that may have been imprinted on you by society. I’m not saying that I will be able to go just about anywhere, but at least I did it. Of course, it helped a lot that this zero star outdoor toilet had an awesome one hell of a five-star view.


Killer view from our 'toilet'

The convoy rolled out at 10am, heading back more than 200km to Kashgar to collect our licences and car registration plates. Before I left for this trip, I had taken the trouble to get my International licence done for the drive. What I didn’t expect was that the Chinese authorities did not recognise this licence. It was mandatory that we had to apply for a local driving licence and a temporary local licence plate for the car.
 

Roadside Scenery on the way to Kashgar

After lunch at Kashgar, it was another 200km drive to our next destination in Karghalik. It was going to be another night of camping and it was our second day without a shower. I was already feeling icky by this time, desperately wishing to have a bath.

I was doing the drive full time today, with Nadya as my co-driver. As China drives on the wrong side of the road (As a Malaysian, I am sticking to the fact that we are right and they are wrong) and our driver’s seat is on the right side of the car, it’s difficult for the driver to see oncoming cars while overtaking other vehicles. In order to drive safely on the road, it’s important that the co-driver helps out by keeping a watch.

While Nadya did a really good job, I think I sort of scared her into near-death experience by what I call decisive driving. To her, it seemed like I was running smack straight into the vehicle coming towards us, trying to kill us all. But I am confident to say that I was in total control. Sorry for the heart attack, Nadya. But the fact that you are still alive and breathing proves that I am a competent driver. Haha!

Along the way, we passed by the Taklamakan Desert. The view from the car was just a terribly long stretch of plain sand. I was a little sorry that we didn’t get to stop and enjoy the view for a while. But it was just as well since we would be visiting the desert again in our forthcoming journey.

Driving through Taklamakan Desert

The drive was long.  It was only at 8.30pm that we finally arrived at the Zepu Forest Park campsite. This time, us girls were well prepared and familiar with the tent mechanism. It may not be rocket science, but being organised plays an important part in speeding up with setting up house.

On the drive in, we spotted a proper toilet built on the campgrounds. Initially overjoyed, we would soon find ourselves totally let down by initial expectations. While it looked great from the outside, all the toilet consist of is just a hole in the middle where all the waste just laid at the bottom, bare to all who dared to take the challenge of looking down.


Toilet with lots of surprises inside

The combination of not having showered for a day and the conditions of the toilet sent a shiver down my spine. Deciding that we would somehow find a way to stay partially clean, we decided to at least wash our hands and legs, the only exposed parts of our body.  Nadya was with me on this while Suzhen, who was really relaxed about such stuff for a girl, regaled us with a scary tale of how she went five days without taking a bath before. But she joined us in the end, deciding if the two of us were to smell good, then everyone in the tent should smell good too.

While the rest of the convoy unpacked and took a short rest, 00 had to go on duty. You see, there had been problems with car 9, driven by a nice uncle that goes by the call name Brother Yong. He and his wife shared the car with two other passengers.

We had helped transport springs all the way from Kuala Lumpur to be installed into the car, and 00 finally had the time to make the fix. He and 1 Dollar, our sweeper (meaning he usually goes at the end of the convoy to make sure that every car was in place on the road), fussed over the car until near the end of dinner, a testimony of their importance and dedication to the convoy.


00 working his magic on car No.9

Dinner that night was noodles and bearing in mind the chefs who were upset about having leftover food, everyone took the extra effort to finish them up. The chefs had followed us to the campsite in a truck with a portable kitchen packed up in the back along with the ingredients. To be fair to them, their cooking was really good. It was the portions that we had a problem with, as it was too much, even for us Malaysians who live to eat.

At night, there was even a performance by an Uyghur tribe, who had an elderly uncle who sang so enthusiastically that you knew he loves his song without understanding the words. Even when the dancing girls danced until they were worn out, he still refused to stop. 


Happily singing away...


The Malaysian girls with the local tribe


Unlike last night, the weather tonight was perfect. Sleep caught up with us as we snuggled into our comfy sleeping bags.

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